Repost of book making tutorial with additional info.
Any questions, feel free to post.
Here are two more links to book making ideas:
Diorama Tuesday - Bathroom & Bedroom For My Dolly Soap
|Here's my newest dioramas and explanations on how I did them: |
Gloria Barbie furniture that I painted on Saturday are the Shower, toilet.
I got the set for under $6.00 on ebay, but shipping made it more.
Search for Gloria Barbie furniture and you'll find it.
The tub and table came from a spa set for My Scene Barbie. I spray painted the tub white.
Champaign and glasses came from a Gloria's furniture dining set.
Dresser is a Michael's wood dresser I painted white. and wall cabinet also
My Scene dresser spray painted white:
Posted by Amanda on January 25, 2009, 2:52 pm
|I was lucky enough to have Dawn get my name for holiday diorama swap... |
here is a reminder of the goodies she made for me
Ron and Bev Dawl, the dolls who live in most of my dioramas with their daughters needed a Master Bedroom...
Posted by Tatiana W. on June 1, 2009, 7:20 pm
|I used gift wrap and checkered prints for walls and floor. |
ну...обои у нас точно есть)
Lelles man ir slimība un zāles.
- Posted by DeeinNJ on April 1, 2008, 9:52 am (DollDivas USA forum discussion thread)
Well, being a week late with last month’s Diorama Discussion, having an early Easter, for which I was dinner host, and a landslide of other commitments, I didn’t have any extra time to put together a super exciting DD for you today.
However, I know you all look forward to SOMETHING, so I was lamenting to fellow board member Vin about how I had NO time to prepare this week’s DD and he suggested just focusing on “things around the house.” He was even gracious enough to offer to snap some photos for me.
So, although this isn’t gonna knock your socks off, you may find some interesting little ideas for how to use stuff that you may already have lying around or that are easy to acquire.
So, I promise a better topic next time, but in light of my crazy life, I present to you… Little Things Mean a Lot.
First, let’s talk about coasters. We have ‘em, we use ‘em, but they also make great props.
Here’s a table made from stacked coasters on the coaster caddy. Real tiny cactus (hens & chicks) and Swarovski crystals help the look.
Here’s a photo from our last Diorama Discussion, the African-look table made from a coaster.
And here is Vero sitting on a bench that is actually the caddy for a set of four coasters,
I just turned it upside down.
The same coaster holder is a bench in this shot
Adding coasters on top of candle holders, blocks or other objects is a great way to make tables.
Here, the candle holder IS the table, but it is still being used as a candle holder! Funny, huh?
The black chest with the gold drawer actually WAS a candle holder, I just pulled the candle dish off the top and, viola!, a cool asian chest.
Here, Vin used the bottom base of a hurricane lamp (the top glass part got broken and he couldn’t bring himslef to toss the base). With an oval mirror on top, it makes a cool table.
The little glass bowl is actually a tea light from Target with the candle removed. Artificial red berries fill the bowl nicely. There’s also a Fashion Fever vase with real ivy sprig and a crystal “knick knack.” Just snipping off pieces of real plants is a great idea to fill your vases, even the cheapo playline ones. It truly helps them look more realistic.
Speaking of vases, this one is a real hoot. This bud vase is made from a pierced earring back and the protective clear tube for a small paint brush. With all of the painting Vin does, he has lots of these! A sprig of real ivy does the job.
Jewel boxes make nice furniture. They can be found at craft stores, discount stores and places like Marshall’s, Home Goods, Ross, etc.
This chaise is actually a jewelry box. But my dolls like it to sit on! By the way, that little round side table is actually a dining table for a dollhouse, so dollhouse furniture can work, too. Tiny dining tables work well for coffee tables, end tables or night tables.
This jewel box with three drawers looks like a 'High Boy' of sorts for your dolls...
It came from Michaels and was $12.00.
This lamp is made from a miniature teapot and an empty glass tea light with a shade from a Yankee Candle room freshener. These shade are great and you can make all types of lamps with these. The ink well is a swarovski piece and the dish is the wasabi dish with an ivy sprig and almonds to resemble brown stones!
How about toothbrush holders from the bath shop? Here, the fancy brown table with the gold scrollwork is just a toothbrush holder with some cardstock attached to the top to make this great console table.
The console table in this photo is also a toothbrush holder, but this time, I just turned it upside down. Good thing the little accessories cover the "Wamsutta" words!
This entertainment unit is made up of drawer organizers. FOUR sections are put together. Each set was sold in two's and stack nicely.
Arranging small 'things' from around the house - they can take on a 'Southwestern' decor, a 'game room' decor or 'eclectic decor.
The cactus from the previous shots in a bit larger terra cotta mini's serve as southwestern decor/living plants.
The bubble gum machine and globe are 'Boyds' bears mini boxes and go for around 12.00 per piece. The TV is a Hallmark ornament that actually plays the ESPN theme. You CAN remove the ESPN logo with nail polish remover (so I'm told).
The coffee table (also the coaster and inverted coaster caddy) is topped with a tealight bowl of 'ICE' (silica gel pellets), a FR 1/6 bottle of champagne, a Swarovski 'cork screw' and a Christmas ornament that resembles a wine rack with two bottles/glasses and wine bucket! The ornament was 7.50 at Christmas time but they always go on clearance after the holidays!The coffee cup is a doll house mini from a craftstore such as Michaels or AC Moores! That great artwork is just a piece of scrapbook paper!
The dining table for two is an inverted candle holder from Target (5.00) and a square mirror top. The embellisments are the tealight holder and 'silicon gel pellets' to resemble ice. The other elements are a tiny Asian-style bowl (a cone incense holder), Swarovski wine caddy/bottle/glasses and cork screw set!
The smaller 'mirror' tray is the tiny mirror found in a CREST tooth whitener strips box lid!
The chairs are from Pivotal Barbie Jazz Babies! The sisal rug is a round place mat from target for 2.98.
So, there you have it. Start looking at those little things hanging around the house in new ways. I hope, however brief this week's topic was, that it provided some inspiration.
I hope to be back with bigger and better things once my schedule allows. AND, I always remind board members that if you have a project or idea to share, don't feel shy about writing me to perhaps have your creation featured in an upcoming Diorama Discussion.
Til next time,
Posted by Marna on July 1, 2007, 3:58 pm
I've been working on this for a while now, I could have redecorated MY house in the time it took me to do this!
Anyway, at one point I had them living in Manhattan with the FR furniture, then I changed it to Hawaii, still using the FR furniture. When I bought the couches from Kimberlee, I was just going to use them for an occasional dioramas, but since they looked so beachy, I moved out all the FR stuff & changed everything around. Everybody is out running errands right now, so let's take a little tour before they get back. Some of the pics are a little dark, so the lighting can show up (yes! I have lighting!)
Here's a front view of the couch:
The matching bench:
The "window". I took this picture last time we went to Hawaii, I just printed it big for this. I finally found some non glare glass for it, so I can take a decent picture of it.
Close up of one of the plantation shutters. This made such a difference to the room when I put them in. Looks like real wood doesn't it? It's a piece of paper glued on cardboard.
The lamps! I made the base of this, & used the shade from a Gloria playset. It doesn't really light, I'm faking it with miniature spot lights.
Of course I made a pair:
A cabinet I made out of trinket boxes & business card holders. I also made this lamp. In fact, I probably obsessed more about this lamp than anything else. I used an acrylic block, topped by a napkin ring I spray painted, & made the shade out of scrapbook paper. I topped it with something I got in the bead store, & glued small Swarovski flatbacks to the top. Even if you don't give a damn, please post you love this lamp. Feel free to lie if you need to.
The wall next to the stairs:
The wall opposite the stairs with the dresser I repainted. The chairs are some Barbie things from somewhere, I think they had blue seats, so I recovered them with contact paper that looks like suede & they came out great. I put all the artwork on black foamboard, I really like how it looks. It's not in the picture, but there are 2 spotlights shining down which is why you see light.
A not so great pic of the bar, it's a weird angle to get to it.This is the coffee table. The base is a candle holder with the top underneath it. I took the candle out, filled it with sand & some shells, then used a piece of glass from a frame as a table top.
This is extra seating, I made the cover myself, which is why you're not getting a closeup!
Here's some pics of the girls at home, Isha is telling everyone about her latest photoshoot.
Discussing fashion, what else?
Kyori coming down the stairs:
Listening to Isha:
And finally, Colette at the bar:Hope you enjoyed the tour!
- Robin's Tea Room:
- DIORAMA DISCUSSION: Robin's Tea Room
Posted by DeeinNJ on September 18, 2007, 9:21 am
Hi, everyone. Welcome to another Tuesday Diorama Discussion. My thanks to Robin, today's guest, for preparing this awesome Discussion for all of us.
Now, let's go to Robin...
Greetings Divas & Divos. Thank you for allowing me to share the making of my tearoom with you, and a special thank you to DeeinNJ for the invitation.
LA TEA ROOM
A tearoom generally caters to women. It is a small room or restaurant, having a sedate or subdued atmosphere, where tea and light meals are served. Welcome to La Tea Room (est. June 2007), located in a restored 1880 cottage on Country Lane Road. Shabby Chic décor with floral wallpaper in yellows and blues, white tablecloths, fresh flowers, and tea served in bone china teapots, provide an escape to tranquility.
To make the room box for my tea room, I chose a simple foam core structure.
* 4 Sheets Foam Core
* Carpenter’s Glue
* Craft Glue Stick
* Xacto knife (with plenty of fresh blades)
* Decorative Paper
I cut any openings and apply my decorative papers before gluing the walls together for ease of application. The white paper reminded me of white wood planks, so I used it on both the upper walls and the floor. It is regular wallpaper and can be found at Lowe’s. Although it is pre-pasted, craft glue and not water must be used to apply it. Water will warp foam core. Cutting strips and laying them horizontally gave me the appearance of crown molding, chair rail and baseboard. Floral wallpaper was used on the lower part of the walls. It is dollhouse wallpaper that I found on clearance. The flower pattern was unusually large for dollhouse scale and works well in 1:6 scale.
Because I wanted my room to be a permanent structure, I glued the walls and floor together with regular carpenter's glue.
Then I reinforced the back with tape to make it sturdy and stable.
Whether it is a tearoom or another venue you wish to build, often what helps the process is to set aside a box or container than you can place items you have collected that are going to be suitable for your project. Add printies that you make yourself. I used printies to decorate the walls, and provide menus and a business license. My girls are rather fond of being waited on by men, so a volunteer, willing to wear a bow tie and a pocket pen, takes his place at the reception desk. A Barbie cash register and miniature telephone for taking reservations (purchased from Motts many years ago) complete his work station.
I used a cabinet that actually consists of two miniature units formed together to make a taller unit. It adds to the Shabby Chic look I wanted. The door was similarly constructed from two wood windows to form a larger piece. They were found in the doll isle of a craft store. (Both of these pieces were beginner projects, which explains their strange shape and rough finish).
A mix of Rement Teapots and cups/saucers, repainted Gloria pieces, Imperial Vintage Silver Dish, and a Rement dessert fill the cabinet.
When using printies for wall photos/paintings, produce them in high resolution to reveal frame details. Glue them to thin foamcore and color the sides to match and add depth. Metallic pens work nicely with gold or silver frames.
A blue dollhouse rug was used on the floor. The tables are from the Barbie wedding set and were chosen for their existing white table cloths. I added paper placemats (printies), napkins from a couple of Barbie accessory sets, and flower vases. Fashion Fever chairs had their crystal beads removed and seat pads were added.
An F.A.O. Schwarz dollhouse chandelier, spayed white without completely covering its former gold and tarnish, add to the Shabby Chic elegance.
I'm not sure how the waiter is suppose to get behind the Rement counter to serve the cakes and pies, but I liked the look so left it. The lamp consists of a dollhouse floor lamp topped with a Barbie lampshade. Rement baskets hold the Rement cutlery and teabags. Other decorations include a Franklin Mint large urn, miniature silver pot, and a dollhouse mirror with a repainted frame. Flowers, too, of course.
Vintage Barbie pieces fit the bill for the waiter's station and tea wagon.
The wearing of a hat and gloves to tea is optional, but a pretty frock is de rigueur.
Anabel Fay arrives for afternoon tea wearing her pretty frock.
Anabel is joined by her dear friend Daphne Bliss.
The tradition of afternoon tea began in England in 1840 when Anna, the seventh Duchess of Bedford, got into the habit of ordering a tray of tea with cakes and sandwiches delivered to her room between meals. She began inviting friends to join her and it soon became a widespread social practice, complete with rules of tea etiquette.
The girls make their afternoon tea selection.
Nearly two centuries after the Duchess of Bedford got into the habit of inviting friends to join her, afternoon tea is still bringing women together.
Thank you for allowing me to share La Tea Room with you.
- Bathing Beauty - A Bathroom Retreat:
- DIORAMA DISCUSSION: Bathing Beauty - A Bathroom Retreat
Posted by Audrey of Diva Details on March 27, 2007, 8:46 am
Good morning Divas and Divos and welcome to it!
Here's a basic beginning inspired by 2” x 4” pieces of wood leftover from another project. (Side Note: Did you know that if you live in the US, and purchase your wood from The Home Depot, they will cut it to your specifications for FREE, or for a very small charge?):
Though the Fashion Fever sink unit doesn't match the other furniture pieces color wise, it reminds me of an updated version of an antique wash bowl and stand; the perfect compliment to the My Scene claw foot bathtub. At this point, the stairs (made of styrofoam) are mid-journey from concept to completion. The green urn (purchased at Hallmark and disected mere moments after purchase), not only fills the space next to the sink, but also sets a theme in motion:
Here are more in progress views of the bathroom from an earlier part of the creation stage. When putting together a setting, I don't always do things in what would be considered a logical order (floor and wall coverings first, etc.) No, usually I fill the space with whatever it wants in the order that the thoughts come to me, then go back and fill in later:
Here’s the room as it looks now. Most of the changes are subtle, though others -- such as the color and contents of the urn -- are dramatic. Believe it or not, I'm still not done with this setting:
Now, let's take a more in depth tour, shall we?
The mural in the back is a sheet of 1:12 scale dollhouse wallpaper by Mini Graphics. It's tall enough to fill the the space above the platform, but not long enough to fully wrap around the sides. To remedy that, I photocopied the mural, then cut off the two end sections and did the best I could to visually match them to the center section to avoid and obvious seam line.
On to the urn. I liked it in green, but decided I would like it even more in an antiqued white finish. To do that, I painted it white and then applied a thinned down pewter colored wax. (That was my first attempt at aging something other than myself, and I’m really pleased with how it turned out.) The flowers and greens are a mix of three different human scale silk flower stems. The spiked greens in the middle belonged to an oversized floral stem. To make it fit my urn, I pulled off all the flowers, cut the entire stem down to approx 3" long and slid the leaf sections together to make one shorter, bushier clump.
Next up is the sink. The mirror, faucet and sink bowl are removable, but the area where the mirror attaches to the table is not flat. However, with a little creative resurfacing of the table top, you can still use this great piece as a side or accent table sans the bowl and faucet, with or without the mirror.
The white wire side table (found at the dollar store) is just the right size and height for bathtub essentials. The pink pillar candle was originally canary yellow. I made the potted plant with some miniature Holly I found at AC Moore at Christmas time a couple of years ago. All I had to do was paint and age a mini terra cotta pot and fill it.
The partially full wine bottle and glass were purchased online as a set. I made the mirrored tray myself (one of a few new items that I'll be introducing as part of my Diva Details product line).
The shelf under the sink which would normally hold more towels has become a safe haven for the cat. She can still share the space and see what’s going on, yet not be under foot. The delicate purpleish pink paper clay orchid from seller MiniOrient on eBay provides a burst of color and texture for a plain corner.
On to the left half of the room. To eliminate the gap between the top of the columns and the ceiling, and to help visually separate the back of the room from the front, I added a piece of 1:12 scale dollhouse molding painted off white. Here's a full view of what the right half of the room currently looks like:
One of the more dramatic changes I made was to add pale olive green scrapbook paper as wallpaper. To create the artwork, I searched for botanical prints online, reduced them in size, printed them out and mounted them on white fun foam. The clothing hook was made by attaching a cup hook to a tiny wooden block, then gluing on individual silk flowers.
The black and white tiled floor as well as the "marble" used to reface the stairs and platform are made of posterboard covered in contact paper.
The toilet (Barbie Fashion Fever furniture collection) came with a painted on red and pink floral design on the lid. I liked the idea, but didn't care for the design itself, so I made my own by shrinking down a floral graphic, then cutting it out and laying it on top of the lid. To make it stay in place without making it permanent or ruining the real design underneath, all I have to do is apply a little rubber cement.
One of my favorite online purchases called Forget Me Nots ‘Wrapped In Roses’:
A cluster of rose colored pillar candles on top of a 1:12 scale cake plate helps to softly "light" the room and add atmosphere. A plush terry towel (a baby wash cloth), a bar of "soap" and a body scrubbing puff are ready and waiting to be used. Did you notice Vero's toes sticking out of the bubbles?
The faucet, handles and feet on the bathtub have all been painted silver to match the faucet on the sink. The knob on the drawer of the sink unit (previously gold) was also painted silver. An assortment of bath salts, oils and post bath fragrance -- which will eventually be on offer via www.DivaDetails.net -- provide a little luxury.
Last but not least, the 3-tier white wire corner shelf (also found at the dollar store) provides additional storage space for even more Diva Details fragrance essentials as well as making a great spot for one more trailing plant.
That’s it for today. As always, here’s hoping you found this diorama tour useful, inspiring and fun!
Audrey D. of Diva Details
- The Terrace by Karen Kolkman:
- Special Guest Karen Kolkman & her winning diorama!
Posted by DeeinNJ on October 16, 2007, 9:22 am
Message modified by administrator Dee October 16, 2007, 12:10 pm
Today, Karen Kolkman is going to let us in on how she created her amazing terrace.
Thanks so much to Karen for sharing her talents with us today!!The Terrace
by Karen Kolkman
Jason Wu Event IV - Pittsburgh September 2007
How it was made
My Story Card
The Baroness lounges in The Terrace penthouse suite located in West London. A recent new comer to the London club scene she is anxiously waiting for the masked ball at Francisco's Club Royal a winner of the London Bar & Club Association 2007.
Although the penthouse was luxury defined, she was getting quite bored while Vanessa was taking her sweet time getting dressed. Making a grand entrance with Francisco at his new Club Royal and being seen with the owner of the hottest night club in town was even better than being on the A-list.
Cisco was busy assisting Vanessa with her zipper while thoroughly enjoying the view (of her lower back) and thinking about the very pleasant evening ahead with his two favorite women.
My Blank Page
After Pat Henry's photography course I purchased these inexpensive lamps at Home Depot.
Only $20 each, they clip on or sit in the heavy base. They are only 60 watts but it works.
I also have 2 overheads lights in my sewing room with 2 florescent tubes in each unit - they just hang from ceiling and plug in by extension cord to a power bar. Again from Home Depot about $30
Okay just this once you get a few pics of my messy work area - it's 8x10'
I used to display my doll but now it's diorama accessories. The dolls are mostly nakid in a drawer.
This was my set up for my latest 16-17" doll outfits. Even though the FR bed is small it works quite well
as a background.
This is my floor. I used peel and stick floor tiles from home depot - inexpensive and light weight for travel.
I stuck them onto the 24 x 24" foam core board. For the balcony I used a different floor tile. I scored the back so it would fold over to fit in my suitcase.
Here's a view of the floor showing the change in tiles for the back room which is a balcony.
Note the Velcro stickies - these are different from regular Velcro. You cut them and stick on both surfaces
and they "snap" into place.
Here's the package I purchased at Michael's for about $16. Still have lots of it left.
A closeup of the Velcro strip that I cut to the thickness of the walls. Each wall had the same size piece at the bottom to match up to the floor placement.
The walls are all foam core board. I reduced the height to 18" again so it would fit in my suitcase.
The window was pain staking. I drew out the the excact squares with pencil. I used a very thin and sharp exacto knife from Michael's. It's about $10 with spare blades. I use a metal rulerwith cork backing (these are used for drafting) and it holds your ruler in place.
I cut each line of each square individually over and over again until it went throught the bottom. Then I turned it over and went over the lines that did't go through.
I don't know if you can see it but to keep the fireplace wall in place I partially cut out the thickness
of the wall into the side wall below. The balcony wall is a cut up FR box from their furniture packaging
and glued it in place on either side of the balcony.
The Fireplace Wall
As in the window I cut out I did the same for the 2 french doors. First I cut out the door height
and then used the cut out for the door - drew out the squares in pencil and then cut them out
as I did for the window wall. I did a trial set first so this was my second set.
While I was making my diorama the official convention invitation arrived so it was the perfect Royal
chimney accent. I used a glue stick to put it in place. The silver crown picks up the light nicely.
I was originaly going to use a piece of the peel and stick flooring.
My walls are in a bit damaged from the return trip but here is a close up of the french doors.
I may add thin strips of balsa wood to make real window trims and door frames.
I cut up my favorite poster (2nd hand store find that I took out of the pictures frame)
It didn't quite fit the size but I didn't want to go smaller. I attached it with a glue stick
and cut a hole in the back for my lighting cord. This is now snapped into place on the floor.
You can see where the Velcro sits. I then added thin balsa wood strips to hide the space where the
floor meets wall.
This is my home made lamp.
The base is a 2nd hand store find and I use it as a lamp - it was originally a candle light.
Floor meets wall - with the balsa wood strip. They can easily be painted and are cut with a scissors.
My fireplace backing. It's just a cardboard box cut out and glued, and painted black. I cut the hole in the
top so the light wood show to light up the wood but my light wasn't bright enough.
A close up of the back. I score the back so I can bend the sides forward.
Another closeup of my fireplace wall connection.
The fireplace during setup. The wall snaps in place. I sit the cardboard backing in behind the wall.
I used a white tile from Home Depot for the base on the floor and just lay it in place.
The mantel is 2 pieces of wood glued together the lower one shorter to give the effect of a real mantel.
The front of the fireplace I used the fancy tile trims in the flooring section from Home Depot.
I cut out the size of the front that I wanted out of foam core board cutting the opening out at the same time.
I used a hot glue gun for the tiles. The surface around the opening is the peel and stick tiles, they are easy to cut with an exacto knife.
I made sure the bottom of this piece would lay flat on the ground and stay free standing.
I did not glue all these pieces together as I was worried about shipping damage.
I used stick stuff from Michael's to keep the fireplace from to the wall and then again on top to
keep the mantel in place.
I stuff the corners of the balcony with lightweight plants.
I made the wood grate out of flexible copper wire.
Branch cut from my Himalayan Birch Tree
Curtain - I screwed little hooks into the window wall.
I used a round rod purchased at Michael's. I made the curtains. The rod fit perfectly into the hooks.
I used tape at the back of the French doors to hold them in place like a hinge.
A view of the top to show the the balcony
I purchased this bar from a friend for $2. The backing had cardboard pictures of liquor bottles which I
removed. I want to have an elegant looking bar.
So I cut cardboard and taped my leather look fabric to it.
The I inserted the pieces behind
My beautiful 2nd hand store vase - which I filled with a floral arrangement.
I like only using the FR bottom cushion as it gives the chaise more room. I sewed the cushion cover
from the same fabric I used in the liquor cabinet.
I made the cushion - copying the FR style of pillows with the diagonal top stitching.
I made the ottoman table using real black leather - just a little bit stiff to work with.
The Completed Room
I made the masks too.
I couldn't find Cisco's mask this morning.
The filled bar
I put a foam core board so no one would see mess behind.
At the convention I had little flood lights but they were battery operated and died pretty quickly.
Here is a close up of the lights.
I added a few little details just like a real home
- Go Hawaiian!:
- DIORAMA DISCUSSION: Go Hawaiian!
Posted by Marna on July 24, 2007, 8:55 am
Message modified by administrator Dee July 24, 2007, 8:59 am
Hello Divas & Divos! Glad you could join me today. I’ve been asked to tell you how I put together my Hawaii room, so I’ll get right to it. Special thanks to DeeinNJ who posted this for me while I’m at work. If you have any questions, just post them & I’ll answer everyone when I get home from work tonight.
To start with, here are a couple of pictures of the room just to remind you what it looks like.
The couch, bench, & wooden side tables are all by Weaver’s Upholstery (http://www.weaversupholsterytoo.com/ ) and were the beginning of the room. It’s also where I had to think up my first trick. The bench is made to lean against a wall, it has no back. I decided I liked how the couch looked against the wall instead. That meant I had to figure out a way to make the bench work like a couch. I took 2 pieces of clear packaging tape (one about an inch longer than the other) & stuck the sticky sides together. Then I just stuck this against the back of the bench. This was enough to hold the pillows in place. Just tell your girls not to lean back. Here’s what it looks like from the back, you have to look closely to see the tape.
I’m going to talk a little about the wall, window, & shutters now.
I’ve had the wall up for a while; it’s just a piece of foamboard. I cut out the space for the windows & covered it in contact paper. I can’t cut a straight piece of foamboard to save my life, but I discovered that you can sand it & that made all the difference. Just use medium sandpaper & don’t press too hard & you can get nice straight lines. Also, an emery board is great for sanding nice sharp corners. I just taped a piece of non glare acrylic to the back for the window, put a picture behind that & used museum putty to hold it to the wall.
The shutters are the easiest things in the world to make. I found a picture of a shutter I liked at http://www.diyshutters.com/ShutterStyles.HTM I saved it, resized it, printed it, cut it out & glued it to a piece of cardboard like this:
To attach it I used my all purpose remedy for everything, museum putty. I just put a couple of blobs of it on the edge of the window & stuck the shutter against it. I left them at an angle to give it a little more depth.
If you decide to make a window, and you want to use glass or plastic, I highly recommend using the anti glare type. When you take a picture of it, you’ll actually get to see what’s behind the glass instead of white glare. It barely reflects the light at all.
I “made” a few pieces of furniture for the room. This dresser was a Fashion Fever dresser I repainted with a couple of side chairs that I covered in contact paper that looks like suede.
This is the bar, which started out as a kitchen sink from a Gloria playset, also repainted. I used the tops from 2 sample size hairsprays which I painted silver for the legs.
This piece I made using a couple of trinket boxes for the bottom & 3 business card holders (I broke one side off of the middle one) for the top half.
The entire thing is stuck together using museum putty, so nothing is permanent & I can change it around if I want. This is what the back looks like; you can get a better idea of how it’s assembled.
Now for the lamps & lighting. I made 2 kinds of lamps using some of the same supplies, this is everything I used:
The acrylic blocks are normally used for stamping. The sizes I used are 1 inch square, & 1 X 1 ½ inch rectangle. These blocks come in all different sizes, & you can find them by searching on eBay for acrylic block under the stamping category. Some come with beveled edges, so you can get different looks. For the taller lamps, I just used one rectangle block for the base, & randomly glued square ones on top. I used GemTac glue because it dries clear. After that had completely dried, I glued a 2 inch nail with a large flat head on the top to hold up the shade. The shades came from a Gloria playset, & I didn’t have to do a thing to them except put a little museum putty inside to hold them on the nail tip. I think you could probably get some interesting looks by painting the tops of the square blocks before you glue them and/or putting them in a straight column. For the smaller lamp, I used another 1 x 1 ½ block topped by a square block you can’t see. The beige base is a napkin ring I painted with the same textured paint from the furniture. I just put this on top of the bottom block, & glued a 1 ½ inch nail to the square block inside. I cut a piece of beige scrapbook paper & pushed it down over the nail to cover up the inside of the napkin ring. I used blue scrapbook paper to make the shade, I just cut a long piece, & then folded so the long sides are 1 ½ inches & the shorter sides are 1 inch. I left a little extra on one side to glue it. Finally I cut a small strip of blue paper approximately 2 inches long & ¼ inch wide & made a small hole in the middle with a nail. I folded the edges so that it fit length wise inside the shade & glued it. When it dried, I put in on the nail that was glued to the base.
I topped the nail tip off with a jewelry finding thing (no idea what it is) which I had glued a couple of Swarovski flatback crystals onto.
To give the illusion that the lamps could actually light, I used Lemax miniature spotlights. I hid the battery box behind the couch & put a spotlight behind each lamp pointing up at the shade. This is a side view of what it looks like:
Very simple. The spotlight is small enough that you can’t see it from the front of the lamp. I also used these spotlights to highlight the artwork:
The wires are going down behind the pictures so they’re not very visible.
The coffee table:
The base of the table came with candle in it. I removed the candle, turned the top upside down to use as a base (it’s stuck together with my good friend museum putty) then I filled the basin with sand & shells. I used the glass from a picture frame for the top.
Odds & ends: The plates & cups are mostly Re-Ment, the stones vases are from eBay seller jeffspera, the artwork is just paintings I found on eBay or Google that I printed & glued to black foamboard. They’re held up by museum putty. The rug is the same contact paper that is on the side chairs, I put it on a piece of cardboard, and you can find the fish statue by searching for Yujin fish on eBay.
I have this room & my Kenmore kitchen permanently on display. This is what they really look like. They are on 2 built in shelves. As you can see, they’re not that big, it’s all the details that give the illusion of size.
I hope you enjoyed this & maybe picked up some ideas for your own dioramas.
- Diorama On A Budget :
- Diorama On A Budget
Posted by Stinker's Stuff` on September 18, 2007, 10:58 am
Here's how I put together the room I use for photographing my doll beds: I'm really big on Foam Board, so I start off with a giant sheet which I put sticky, kitchen drawer contact paper on (looks like wood flooring). I usually set it up on top of my bed, due to lack of space, and the light that comes in from the window is good for pictures.
Two more pieces of Foam board, which I've cut out sections of to install Doll house windows in one, and a hole for my fireplace to go in the other:
I got my fireplace from a Hallmark store for $35.00, it was on display with some stuffed Christmas dolls. It has a bit of a large backside, hence the hole in the foam board. It came with candles:
My plants I get at Wal-Mart, Home Goods or Ross and my end tables are all pencil holders or little wooden trunks I got from a crafts store:
I also cover the white foam board with sheets of wallpaper from wallpaper sample books I got from 'Wallpapers To Go' for free. I covered this wall with black poster board, and cut out a hole for the fireplace. The curtains I made out of sheer material, the curtain rods are actually wood, shiska-bob (sorry can't spell that) rods that I cut in half.
My paintings I got on line. I've changed my website to give credit to the artists so there shouldn't be infringement. I print them out and paste them onto black, gold or silver construction paper or poster board:
The brick wall I got from Jim's Printable Mini's:
And with a little light on the other side of the window coming in:
I can get pictures like this:
The Fireplace behind her I made myself out of foam board, a picture of a fire, and poster board covering it. I LOVE the dioramas I've seen from everyone else posted here. I wish mine could be as detailed, but I have to take this down and put it back up every few days and all of it already fits into 3 boxes as it is. My husband has been very understanding with the wall of white storage draws we have in our master bedroom.
This is my sewing nook in that same room:
Thanks for looking! I really appreciate it.
- Fun with Foam Core - Create a Basic Room Shell:
- Fun with Foam Core - Create a Basic Room Shell - by Audrey (Diva Details)
Fun and foam core. Those are three words many diorama addicts would never put in the same sentence. Unless it was preceded with the word: not.
Before I begin, thank you to DeeinNJ, your official Diorama Diva instructor, for allowing me once again to host another Tuesday Diorama Discussion.
Just to recap, the last Diorama Discussion we had -- an open forum in which everyone on the board was invited and encouraged to post their diorama pics under one thread -- was a resounding success. The board was absolutely inundated with outstanding diorama photos and ideas that ranged from simple to outrageously elaborate. Though each setting was as different as the next, for the most part, what each room had in common was the room itself.
On that note, though this has been written about before, I thought this would be a good time to get back to basics and show you how to create a simple room shell. Although there are many ways to create a room shell as well as many types of materials to do it with, today we're going to focus on foam core. Why? because it's lightweight, fairly sturdy, inexpensive and easy to cut.
Stop laughing and rolling your eyes. It IS easy to cut, I swear. You just need the right tools. So, without further adieu:
For those who aren't familiar with it, you can pick it up at any craft store or craft department, and at most office supply stores like Staples, Office Depot, Office Max, etc.
For this project, I took a 30" x 40" foam core sheet and drew a line across the center at the 15" mark, then scored it with an X-Acto knife. After that, I very carefully folded the foam core in half so that the rough cut edges were on the outside, and the smooth, uncut side was on the inside. (Tip: Try this technique on small scrap pieces first before moving on to your main sheet.)
Don’t worry if the edges are bumpy and rough, because the next step is to leave the foam core folded in half and put a piece of wide, heavy tape over the lumpy, exposed edge. Not only does it give the fold line strength, but it hides the lumpy bumpy mess. For the sake of aesthetics, opaque (as opposed to see through) tape is best.
When you're done (though it's hard to see), you should have something that looks like this:
What you've just created is a 15" high x 20" wide x 15" deep floor and back wall combo.
Next, set that aside and cut another piece of foam core that's 15" x 15" for the side wall. Ooooo, I can hear it now: "Oh no! Not more foam core cutting!" No worries. Here's where it gets easy. To make beautiful, clean cuts, buy yourself a foam board cutter. It doesn’t look like much but it makes SUCH a difference. Oh, and while you're at the store, be sure to pick up some 'T' pins, too:
After you've cut your side wall(s) out, if you plan on adding set in windows, this is the time to do it. (Tip: make a guide line with a ruler that's parallel with the ceiling area to make sure that the window opening is straight.)
If you don't want to make them yourself, there's a wide variety of pre-made windows that can be purchased in a miniatures store, miniatures departments, or online. Even though they're small, don't overlook 1:12 scale windows. Some of them are actually quite large, and even the smaller ones if used in a small space or doubled up side by side can work when used with the right window treatments and furnishings. Here are a couple of photos to give you an idea of what's out there:
The photo above shows a playscale or 1:6 scale window (designed for 11 1/2" sized dolls) next to a 1:12 scale window (designed for small dollhouses).
The window on the left is under the brand name Jamestown. I bought it here: http://www.oakridgehobbies.com/misc_page/dollhouse_playscale_barbie.html though there are likely other places that carry them, too. The window on the right is by Houseworks. I found my Houseworks window in the miniatures department of AC Moore, but you can also find them online.
Check the packaging that the window comes in. It should include an installation template. In this case, it’s on the back of the box:
If your window didn't come with a template, then you'll either have to create your own on a piece of paper, cardstock, etc., or trace the shape directly on to the foam core wall.
For this project, I used a 15-pane Houseworks 1:12 scale window. Here's the bare wall with the window opening cut:
Yikes, those edges are rough. That wall was part of my very first foam core diorama, and instead of using a foam board cutter, I used a regular X-Acto knife. What a nightmare. That project alone nearly put me off foam core dioramas all together.
Skipping ahead a little, now it's time to decorate your walls. There are endless ways to do it. You can either buy colored foam core and leave it as is or buy white and paint it yourself. Add visual interest with "wallpaper" on half the wall and leave the other half un-papered. Divide the two sections with 1:12 scale chair rail molding. Or, paper the whole thing. Add borders, wood or metal embellishments, you name it.
During that project, I decided that removable wall coverings were the way to go. To accomplish that, I cut a sheet of posterboard to size, covered it with palm print contact paper, then cut out the hole for the window. To keep the wall covering in place on the walls, I used velcro.
That was then. Although I specifically designed it to be both an on-the-go, simple, portable, easy to change, folding photo backdrop . . .
as well as the base for a 2 or 3 wall room, my suggestion now would be to attach your wall covering directly to the foam core instead.
Stepping back once again and wrapping up the window installation section, here's a photo of the finished side wall with the window installed:
What's holding the window in place? Nothing more than a snug fit. (But not so snug that I can't easily pop it out it out and use it elsewhere.) These windows may look heavy, but they're not, which makes them ideal for an application like this one.
Now it's time to move on to assembly. Here's where those ‘T' pins come into play. To attach your side wall (or walls), stand the back wall/floor on end and put a side wall on top of it making sure they line up properly. Next, push a 'T' pin straight down through both sections of foam core.
I used five ‘T’ pins total, but you can use more if you want to. Although it's not as durable as wood, it can be broken down and stored and then reassembled very easily. (Tip: after you've disassembled your room, highlight all the pin holes with a magic marker so that they're easy to find and line up for reassembly.) If you create several different walls and you coordinate carefully, you can mix and match them. Add windows and doorways in a snap or take them away just as quickly. For even more variety in size and room style, instead of scoring and folding the foam core to create an attached back wall/floor combo, cut your walls out as separate sections and then assemble them with 'T' pins either with or without a foam core floor. (Tip: An 18" high wall is a nice height for 11 1/2" size dolls.)
For a fast, easy and versatile floor that you can use anywhere, cut a piece of posterboard to size and cover BOTH sides with contact paper. Marble on one side, wood on the other. Or black and white tile on one side, granite on the other, etc. Alternatively, scan, reduce and print out human size floor tiles, use stone print scrapbook paper (click here: http://www.dolldivas.net/DD-diorama-Stones.html for a ready to print computer scan of it). Use velour or inexpensive velvet fabric as carpeting.
Here's a photo of what the finished wall looks like when attached to the (unfinished) back wall/floor base combo. If you're going to add baseboard or chair rail molding -- be it permanent or temporary -- wait until after the room is assembled to do it.
Here's an old photo with more of that palm print contact paper added to the back wall:
And, last but not least, here it is in its not ever likely to be finished form, the second diorama I ever created which I dubbed: 'Kurt's Den':
Did you notice the gap along left corner? When I first started, I didn't know enough to use ‘T’ pins to hold the walls together, so for that diorama, the left wall is supported by nothing more than a well hidden coffee cup. :-)
That wraps up today's discussion. As always, here’s hoping you found it useful, inspiring and FUN!
Until next time . . .
Today’s Diorama Discussion is going to be more of a Diorama Comment. You see, the daughter of the Diorama Diva writing this article has had a stomach bug for the last few days -- hence -- poopy diapers to the 10th power and not much dolly time. So, I’m going to focus on something quick... and easy: the infamous Gloria Fireplace.
The “Gloria” fireplace is a cheap little set available on ebay for a few bucks (of course, the shipping will cost you your first born, but that’s another story). It’s a “marble” looking fireplace that comes with some neat accessories like a crystal mantel clock, candleabra and picture frame. It also comes with a rather shocking hot pink rocking chair. I don’t know about you, but I have never seen a hot pink antique-style rocking chair, but I guess in the world of fashion dolls, this is a color of choice. The rocker is actually pretty nicely designed, but it definately needs some repainting if you are going for that realistic look.
Now we’ve seen this little gem in so many photos posted on this and other boards, and for sure, every single one has had some kind of a facelift, although it’s not really bad “as is.” Some have been painted, some stuccoed, some tiled, and some faced with gold.
Despite what some may think, I’m not as crafty as I appear and I surely don’t have a lot of time to get too elaborate with things. A can of spray paint or some paper and I’m fine... cutting mini mosaics is something others are much better at than me.
So, when I looked at my Gloria fireplace after snapping a few pics, I decided it looked a bit “blah.” See this “before” photo on the front of the box:
However, not being so crafty, and also starved for hobby time, I needed a quick way to jazz it up without lots of muss and fuss. I found this awesome marble-print card stock in the scrapbook aisle at JoAnn Fabric & Crafts. The card stock is coated and glossy, so it looks just like real marble. I made a paper template and then cut the shapes from the marble cardstock to attach to the front. I just used Xyron, but you could use spray adhesive or hot glue. Now, I could still jazz this fireplace up a bit more, but for those like me who just want a quick fix, this will do it. I left the rest of the fireplace as is. I suppose you could also use marble-print contact paper and just stick it to card stock before trimming it out and gluing it on.
I would recommend making a template from scrap paper before you cut your final paper/card stock. Since my marble was black, I used a black sharpy to fill in any areas of the fireplace that the paper was cut a smidge too short and you can’t even tell (OK, the secret’s out).
|At left is a photo with the fireplace “in action,” and then below is one with just the fireplace by itself (yawn).|
Hope this was helpful, have a great week!
Think Outside the Box -Create a Runway for Your Mini Models
- Hey, Gang
What prompted this weeks discussion was my need to create a fashion show set for my local Barbie Club meeting that I hosted last month. Our theme was 'At the Boutique' and we made a small Barbie boutique, gave away custom creations from our boutique crafted by Angie of BCCan Designs (thanks, Angie) played a mini version of the Price is Right, made sock sweaters and hosted a fashion show where we asked each member to bring a doll ready for the runway. I needed something roomy enough to show off several dolls, but portable and easy to set up and take down.
As is my custom, I scoured the house in search of things I could use to make my idea a reality. When I unearthed the box from Fashion Royalty's FDQ Vanessa gift set (I don't get rid of interesting packaging), I knew I had a great starting point.
Vin has already shown us how to turn a doll box into a designer closet for your dolls; today I'll show you how to use doll boxes/packaging to make a fashion show set. Even if you don't have the FDQ Vanessa box, you can use other doll boxes or packaging from other items in different ways. You just have to think... outside the box!
OK, first, you need the box, some long strips of cardboard packaging (which I salvaged from some other household purchase). Ideally, they should be about 25 inches long and about 4 inches wide. If you don't have any packaging laying around, buy large blocks of styrofoam and cut them yourself or cut up pieces of foamcore board and layer them to the height you want. Then, cut strips of poster board 5 inches by 25 inches (or slightly longer than your runway). Really, your runway will be as long as you have room for. They can be any color, but I chose white. These will lay over top of the runways to hide the cardboard and make them look nice. If you use foamcore, you could actually pleat fabric and pin it along the edge of your runway for a more finished look (but I definitely had no time for that with everything else I had to do to prepare for that club meeting!)
Create a floor for your set. I just used a table cloth in a neutral color. Remove the lid to the Vanessa box and open it wide. Take a digital photo of a background you like (I used the curtains from my Silkstone display case) then print it out and tack in inside the middle opening. You could also use some designer scrapbook paper in all three panels of the box, but I just decided to fill the center one.
Next, use straight pins to hang some tree ornaments that look like chandaliers. Just push the pins into the top of the box and hang the ornaments on the pins.
Make a pair of mini curtains (I already had these as a prop). If you don't sew, you can use iron on tape and create a pocket to slide onto your mini rod. These rods are usually for small windows or sidelights for doors, etc. I got my rod courtesy of Audrey, the ever resourcful Diva! (Thanks, Audrey.)
Rest the curtains on the rod on the top of the box, them tie them back with a pair of gold necklaces (more salvaged from my jewelry-making endeavors). You could also tie back your curtains with tassels or ribbons -- whatever you like.
Next, lay down your runway and start adding accessories!
I added a few urns, an easel w/a fashion show sign and a microphone for the commentator.
I also repainted and recovered some Gloria diningroom chairs for a very elegant look (I'll figure out what to do with the table someday!)
Now, the girls are ready for a fashion show.
Not only is this a nice diorama in itself, but it's an excellent backdrop when you want to take some stylish doll photos, even close ups. ANY fashions can work (because it's a fashion show!), and it's easy to set-up.
In these photos, I have just a single runway, but for the actual meeting, I set the runway up as a 'T' with the second runway intersecting the middle of the first. This allowed us have more dollies strutting their stuff at the same time. You can flank your runway with potted plants or small urns for a jazzier look. Here's a pic of the actual set-up from the meeting.
In this set up, I used the roman columns from the My Scene Party Pad for a bit more elegance.
Oh, notice the tea cart. I got this idea from the promo pics of Highland Fling. It's really the cleaning/beverage cart from Barbie's Hawaiian Hotel Resort, but I added gold trim with Galaxy markers and now it's posh enough for this high-fashion event. The tea set and dessert are from Rement.
Now, if you want a less POSH fashion show set, you can also use your doll boxes or other packages to create a modern runway.
Here, I took two of the new Fashion Royalty doll boxes and put the runway between them, then stacked the lid to the Vanessa box on top. I used black poster paper for the floor and walls. I cut an embossed panel from the side of one of the LOFT collection pieces and used that as the center of my set behind the runway. Then, I tossed in two of the Bratz lighting umbrellas.
Here, the trendy gals strut their stuff!
I whipped this up in about two seconds, so if you really spent some time, you could create elevation with steps made from those spice risers, etc. Maybe add some modern art, mirrors, glass block, etc. etc. Get creative!
OK - that wraps up this weeks discussion. Go dig through your garage and find some packaging to construct sets for your dolls.
Til next time...
- einiteForuma dvēsele
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-Es mīlētu rītus daudz vairāk, ja tie sāktos nedaudz vēlāk...
Lūdzu, izmantojot manu fotogrāfiju norādiet atsauci (linku, ar foto oriģinālu). Paldies
- BamikBarbie expert
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- I've been promising to do this one for a while, and now that I finally had the energy - here we are!
I am of the Mac persuasion, but when you try and look for computers for your figs or dolls, if you're lucky, you find some fugly PC stuff (there is one Barbie set that comes with a cute iMac-looking monitor, but no processors). And I'm all about details and authenticity. What to do? Make my own, of course!
Use this here to print your very own artwork for G5 Macintosh processor. Either use carstock to print this on, or (like me) glue the sheet to a sheet of cardstock.
Now cut the art as shown.
You now have the sides-bottom-handle-piece and the front-top-back-piece.
The reason for this construction will become clear in a moment.
Score the flaps. To do this, I use a paper clip and ruler. You can do it just on the wrong side (the side without the artwork on it), but because I'm anal, I do it on both sides.
The reason you need to do it is to ensure that your flaps will fold nice and evenly.
Warning - do NOT score the top flappy thing - check the next pic to make sure you scored everything properly.
This is not really a step - just a shot to make sure all the bendy bits are bendy and the top is left alone. Got that? Moving on.
The way G5s are constructed, they have kind of handles on top. To make this, gently (I said GENTLY!) shape this part with your thumb and finger.
Now the fun part! We're going to glue the top part first. Take the long and narrow part, aka front-top-back part, align the top (the middle part of the narrow piece) with the handle dealios of the sides. Put glue where little arrows in the pic are pointing and hold in place. Make sure there's no glue on the handle bits.
Repeat with the other side. Let dry.
At this point, only the top is glued in place. Take some time to rearrange the top handles, if needed.
Put glue on the flappies of the side pieces - we will glue the front and back now. Do it one side at a time, because (unless you're THAT uber) the thing will take this opportunity to get crookified.
If your top is not dry at this point, it will want to come off.
Now comes the final part. Glue the flappies of the front and back and the flap of the bottom, as shown.
Hold your processor until the glue sets. YAY! You're DONE!
Printables & How-To's:
- Материалы и инструменты:
1. Бумага простая (офисная или акварельная)
3. Скрапбумага - для обложки (можно заменить)
4. Ткань Studio для печати на принтере (можно заменить)
5. Дистресс-чернила (чернила для печатей)
6. Клей, клей для декупажа, кисточка
7. Нитки, иголка, резак, линейка, шило
8. Фурнитура и элементы для декоррирования
Шаг 1. Нарезаем бумагу: в данном случае я сгибала пополам несколько листиков и резала на прямоугольнички размером 1 на 1,5 дюйма, всего получилось 12 миникнижечек по 6 листов – это наша основа книжечки; если вы не хотите похвастаться большим количеством страниц в вашей миниатюре, то можете использовать и акварельную бумагу, в этом случае вам нужно сложить всего 12 листочков.
Шаг 2. Теперь вам нужно сшить ваши миникнижечки в одну. Это совсем не трудно. Сшиваем книжечки по очереди методом коптского переплета или любым другим знакомым вам способом, можно и на машинке.
(Коптский переплет в следующем посте )
Шаг 3. После того как наша книжечка сшита, наносим клей на корешок и даем ему высохнуть,
поскольку я использовала клей Момент, мне не пришлось долго ждать, чтобы приступить к следующему шагу.
Чтобы книжечка могла вынести трения и всяческие воздействия в нашей сумочке или на ней, сделаем для нее твердый переплет.
Шаг 4. Вырезаем из картона основу для твердого переплета : две обложки размером 3 на 4 см и корешок, соответсвующий толщине книжечки (примерно 1 см), клеим на выбранную вами скрап-бумагу, оставляя небольшое расстояние между обложками и корешком.
Шаг 5. Вырезаем, загибаем и приклеиваем бумагу с внутренней стороны обложки.
Шаг 6. Шилом делаем дырочку в корешке переплета и встявляем кольцо, к которому потом будем крепить основу брелка и украшения.
Шаг 7. Вклеиваем книжечку: наносим клей на внутреннюю сторону обложки, на внешние страницы и корешок книжечки, приклеиваем. Если есть необходимость, можно поставить книжку под пресс на 30-40 минут. Книжечка готова!
Шаг 8. Декоррируем на свое усмотрение.
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